Finish the patch with two coats of joint compound, allowing the first to dry before smoothing on the second. After the veneer plaster sets, knock down any high spots with sandpaper, being careful not to sand through to the mesh. Setting plaster hardens quickly, allowing for the next steps to happen in short order. Using a setting-type veneer plaster, use a taping knife to trowel a thin layer over the mesh tape and surrounding wall. This step will reduce the chances of any cracking that happens in the base layers from telegraphing through to the finished surface. Go over the joint between the new base coat and the old plaster with nylon mesh tape. Essentially a water-based glue, the bonding agent ensures good adhesion between the old work and the new. When the base coat is dry, brush a plaster bonding agent over it and the surrounding old plaster. Once the base coat is flush with the surface of the remaining old plaster, smooth it well with the trowel to minimize the need for sanding. Once the base coat keyed to the lath, use the flat trowel to fill the area with more base coat. Nylon fibers added in while mixing the base coat add strength. Use a stiff mix so that it won’t sag before it sets. The plaster that goes between the lath is called “keys”, and it locks the material in place. With all the loose old plaster removed, use a flat trowel to coat the exposed lath with plaster base coat, being sure to work the material into the spaces between the lath. In this video, This Old House host Kevin O’Conner shows you how to patch holes in plaster walls. If the lath behind the old plaster is sound, patching is a matter of troweling on layers of mud. How to Patch Plaster Walls if the Lath is in Good Condition The patch is now ready to prime and paint. On the third day, spread another coat, and after it dries, smooth it gently with a damp sponge. Gently scrape it smooth and apply a second coat. Using a 6-inch taping knife, scrape the patch area smooth, and cover the patch with a thin layer of ready-mix joint compound. How to Repair Lath and Plaster in 6 Steps 1. It’s a common practice to replace missing plaster with a piece of blue board (a wall board made to be coated with plaster), but troweling on base coat is faster. Finish coats came after the base had dried. Several coats were applied, the first keying into the spaces between the lath to make a stable base. Into the 20 th century, plaster was applied over wood lath spaced half an inch or so apart over the studs or ceiling joists. If the lath is in good condition and you need to repair holes, patching is a matter of troweling on layers of mud. Don’t use so-called patching plaster sold at home centers, it’s much harder than the wall’s original plaster, and it sets in the blink of an eye. It’s better to use a softer, slower-setting lime-based plaster, like the one developed for Big Wally’s line of plaster-repair products, takes about an hour to set, isn’t prone to cracking or delaminating, and needs no sanding, which keeps dust to a minimum. How Do You Repair a Hole in Lath and Plaster Walls?įor lath and plaster repair, it’s important to use good techniques and the right materials. First, you’ll repair the lath and then patch the hole. If you’re dealing with damaged lath and plaster walls-for example gaping holes in the wall because of electrical work-here are techniques you can use to repair them.
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